Composite vs PVC vs cedar vs ipe, honestly
Every one of these materials is the right answer for somebody and the wrong answer for somebody else. You’ve read a dozen pages claiming otherwise — here’s the version with the downsides left in.
The table
| Composite | PVC | Cedar | Ipe / hardwood | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Installed cost / sq ft* | $85–92 | $92–100 | $85–90 | $95–100+ |
| Working lifespan | 15–25 yrs | 25–30 yrs | 15–20 yrs (maintained) | 40+ yrs |
| Yearly maintenance | Wash | Wash | Wash + oil every 1–2 yrs | Wash; oil only if you want the color |
| Heat underfoot (August) | Hot in dark colors | Coolest synthetic | Comfortable | Warm, not hot |
| Looks like wood? | From a distance | Very good, not actual | Is wood | Is wood — the best of it |
| Wet-climate behavior | Good | Best — absorbs nothing | Needs the maintenance | Excellent, with correct gapping |
| Warranty story | 25–50 yr limited (mfr) + ours | 25–50 yr limited (mfr) + ours | Ours | No manufacturer — ours is the warranty |
*Installed, on our builds, including structure — not a lumberyard board price. Site, elevation, and access move these numbers.
For Portland’s climate specifically
Material choice here is really a water question.
Nine wet months mean the failure points are the ones you can’t see: the ledger where the deck meets the house, the flashing above it, the gapping that lets boards drain and the framing breathe. We detail those the same way regardless of what you walk on — flashed and counter-flashed, ventilated, fastened for movement.
Then the surface: synthetics shrug off winter but composite can hold moss in deep shade; PVC sheds it best. Cedar and ipe handle the wet beautifully if the gapping and airflow are right — which is a build question, not a brochure question. Ask any builder you’re comparing how they flash a ledger. The answer tells you everything.
The questions we actually get
What’s the real difference between PVC and composite decking?
Composite is a wood-flour-and-plastic blend; PVC is all polymer. PVC absorbs essentially no water, runs cooler, and weighs less — which matters over living space and in full shade where moss grows. Composite costs less and has more color options. In a dry climate the difference is small; in Portland’s nine wet months, PVC earns its premium on shaded or covered-over sites.
How much does an ipe deck cost in Portland?
Plan on the top of our $85–$100 per square foot installed range, and past it for elevated builds or custom rail. A 300 sq ft ipe deck typically lands in the $28,000–$35,000 neighborhood depending on site and structure. Slow, skilled installation — every hole pre-drilled — is most of the premium; the boards themselves outlast every synthetic.
Does ipe need to be oiled?
Only if you want to keep the brown. Left alone, ipe weathers to an even silver-gray and loses nothing structurally — many of the best-looking decks we build are silvered on purpose. If you want the rich color, budget one oiling a year, ideally in early summer.
What decking is best for the Pacific Northwest specifically?
The honest answer depends on exposure. Full shade and moss: PVC. Sun and a low-maintenance brief: composite. An older house where character matters and you’ll keep up the oil: cedar. The longest life and the best aging: ipe. What matters in every case here is the invisible work — flashing, ventilation, gapping — because water, not sun, is what kills Portland decks.
Is cedar cheaper than composite?
On day one, yes — cedar is the least expensive install on our list. Over ten years, usually not: honest cedar ownership means washing and re-oiling every year or two, and periodic board replacement. Cedar is a fair choice made for its warmth and fit, not for its budget.
The honest answer for your lot is a site visit away.
Sun, shade, slope, access, and how you actually live outside — that’s what decides the material. The consultation brings samples of all four to your door and ends with a straight recommendation.
or call Tim: (503) 597-8520